
Kayak Paddling Technique
More paddling pointers coming soon!
- Forward stroke: The key to a forward
stroke is torso rotation and doing as much of the work below the deck of the
kayak.
- The Catch: (The paddle blade entering the
water) It is important to get the blade as far forward at the catch.
This is done with torso rotation and an extended relaxed lower arm.
Relaxed is key as you will be able to reach further forward with a relaxed
arm. As soon as the paddle enters the water it is important to push with
the ball of the foot on the side where the paddle entered the water.
this thrust at the ball of the foot is followed by a thrust which moves up the
leg resulting in a rotation at the waist. You can practice this by
isolating the stroke to only what happens below the deck. Yes! you can
paddle with locked arms doing all the work with your legs.
- The Stroke: It is key that as soon as the
blade has entered the water your arms are completely loose and relaxed.
Your pulling arm will work strictly in tension (think of it as a rope
which is pulling the blade back toward your hip. Your pushing arm will
work in compression. You will use bone and the forward motion of your
shoulder blade will drive your arm forward. The joints are all loose so
your muscle does not impede the forward motion of the arm.
- Blade angle: It is key that neither hand
imparts any angle to the blade. The blade is designed to split the water
with the ridge in it's center. It may flutter a small amount but will
stay perpendicular to the force which is pulling it backwards. If it
tend to slice you are either tightening your grip and causing it to slice or
it is improperly designed.
- Lift: A good blade is designed with some
thickness. This is generally done with a foam core. This thickness
combined with the convex front face and concave or flatter power face will
create lift. In other words as you are pulling the blade back it may
tend to go away from the boat. This is good. For one thing it
brings the blade closer to the surface as it comes back toward your hip.
This will lessen the time in which the blade comes out of the water and you
are prepared to catch with the opposite blade. The lower pressure on the
front face also theoretically will drive the boat forward due to Bernoulli's
Principle. Your blade should move in a crescent from the catch right
next to the boat at your toes to the exit at the hip away from the boat.
- Shaft Angle: There are those who say that
for touring one should have a really low shaft angle and racers only should
use a high shaft angle. Low shaft angles require longer paddle shafts
which make paddling less efficient. One also winds up paddling with arms
which are more bent and do not work as well in pure tension and compression.
For the more bent arms to work properly one has to use more muscle and less
skeleton. Muscles consume much more oxygen from your blood and tire.
Your skeleton is still strong after a long day it is the most durable part of
your body. If you get a boat of the proper volume with a good design you
should be able to paddle with a relatively short shaft and a low paddle angle.
I have found that all the Prijon boats can be paddled with a 215 cm Ardeche
paddle. If your arms are loose it really does not matter if you use a
steeper paddle angle because the paddle will work like a teeter totter using
the weight of your pulling hand to raise the pushing hand.
- Things to remember:
- The more work your legs do the less your arms need to
do. Using your legs will also keep your legs from falling asleep on
long paddles.
- Get accustomed to the hull speed of the boat you are
paddling. Trying to push it beyond that speed is not efficient except
when "popping the boat" in shallow water. I will discuss it in the
future.
- Be aware of the possibility of being chafed by your
seat and back-band on long trips.
Prijon Kayaks
www.hartray.com